This paper aims to review the latest researches on smoothness-roughness sensation of fabric, which is considered as one of the important factors that affect clothing comfort. To begin with, the definition of clothing comfort and position of smoothness-roughness sensation within clothing comfort were classified. Further the physical and neurophysiological understanding of sensation with research gap was reviewed. Lastly sensation evaluation methods were reviewed for further development of new instruments. This papers aims to be a reference in future for related studies.

The garment pattern grading is a crucial procedure for manufacturing full sizes of clothing products. This procedure traditionally starts with an ‘average’ pattern and generates a set of sized garment patterns by extending the ‘average’ pattern. The quality of the graded patterns depends on the grading technique and the technician's experience. However, the garment patterns are often graded based on two-dimensional rules that hardly provide an accurate fit because of shape variations and complexity of 3D human bodies. Additionally, the traditional pattern grading is conducted manually and very time-consuming. In this paper, we propose a new automatic approach of generating full sizes of garment patterns by flattening 3D garments created from parameterized mannequins in fulfilling the requirements of body structures, sizing chart and garment fit. Firstly, a parametric human body model is introduced called Horizontal Piecewise B-spline Curves (HPBC) model. Three types of novel frames are developed from the HPBC model, namely feature frame, size frames, and ease frames. Based on these frames, a range of fit and flattenable 3D garments are established. Finally, the graded patterns can be generated by flattening these 3D garments.

In recent years, the area of sketch-based virtual garments generation has attracted more and more attention. In this paper, we propose a new method to develop 3D virtual garments by applying mesh deformation technology for the sketch-based approach. Compared to the traditional methods, the 3D garments, generated by our method, can be obtained easily and directly. The technology of mesh deformation in our paper involves two algorithms: Laplacian mesh editing/optimization, and mean-value geometry encoding/decoding. Given the modified positions for a set of anchor vertices, the mean-value encoding and decoding are used to transform the positions for the rest of the mesh vertices. Laplacian mesh editing and optimization are capable of improving the quality of the triangulation while preserving the shape properties of the original models. The resulting 3D garment validates the effectiveness of the proposed method.

Influenced by clothing style and fit, as well as human body contour, the distribution of air gaps entrapped between human body skin and inner surface of clothing is complex and difficult to measure. The three- dimensional body scanning technology provides a realistic method to quantify the air gap volume by scanning the surface image of human body and clothing. This research measures the air gap volume of thirty experimental clothing using a 3D body scanner and analyzes the effect of clothing size and mechanical property of fabric on air gap volume under clothing. The experimental clothing is made of different fabrics with increasing chest circumference from 92 cm to 108 cm. To investigate the relationship between air gap volume and thermal property of clothing, a thermal manikin is used to measure the thermal insulations of experimental clothing. As the air gap volume increases with the garment size, the thermal insulations of clothing do not linearly increase. The thermal insulation begins to decrease when the chest circumference of experimental garments becomes more than 100 cm due to the onset of natural convection. This research is helpful to study the affecting factors of air gap volume under clothing and estimate the effect of air gap volume on the thermal property of clothing.

Based on the theory of forward engineering design, this paper deals with modelling the outer surface of moulded bra cup by using the methods of body measurement, data analysis and 3D modelling. In the study, thirty female college students who are 18-24 years old, born and grew up in the northwestern part of China were measured. On the basis of these body measurement data, the features of the human body, the relationship between the basic features of the breast form and the major detail size were analyzed. This is so that the relevant parameters of the chest which is used to describe the perfect female breast shape can be quantified. At the same time, these quantitative parameters were used in the modelling of the outer surface of moulded bra cup to obtain the bra cup which can correct, modify and beautify the breast shape. It has been demonstrated that the theory of forward engineering design is reasonable and possible to be implemented in the design of moulded bra cup, and in the 3D modelling of the outer surface of moulded bra cup the methods of line-face and face-face should be combined together to make the process of 3D modeling more effective.

A kind of regenerated Silk Fibroin (SF), nano-blended membrane, was made using an ionic liquid as a solvent. The membranes were characterized by SEM, XRD, FTIR, TG. The SEM showed that more agglomerations were observed with the increase of blended nano-TiO_2 (TD). XRD and FTIR verified that nano-TD made conformational changes in SF membrane and the conformation changes from random coil or Silk I into Silk II with the increase of nano TD. The TG analysis showed that pure silk fibroin membrane and nano TD membranes had only one apparent thermal transition region, at about 300 °C. Based on the mechanical performance test of SF membranes, tensile strength obviously increased when the amount of nano TD increased, which indicated that the mechanical strength improved with the addition of certain amount of nano TD.

In this paper photochromic microcapsules were prepared by in-situ polymerization using melamine formaldehyde resin as wall materials and tetrachloroethylene solution with photochromic materials as core materials. In order to attain a suitable particle size of microcapsules to be used in fabric by blending or coating, high emulsifiers were used to produce smaller oil drop. The factors affecting the properties of microcapsules were discussed in detail, such as emulsification time, PVA concentration and acidification time. The experiments revealed that the average particle size of microcapsules increased firstly then decreased with the increase of emulsification time. The same trend was observed when different concentrations of emulsifiers were used. Acid conditions directly affected the airproof and transparency of microcapsules. Finally, the optimum process condition was determined. The results showed that the particle size of microcapsules ranged from 1 μm to 20 μm and the photochromic blue microcapsules prepared at the optimum process condition could carry the color change quickly and reversibly. The knit fabric with photochromic property was obtained by coating with photochromic blue microcapsules, and the fabric thus formed could change its color quickly and as well as be reversed back to its original color for many times. The knit fabric had good washing fastness and rubbing fastness. Therefore photochromic blue microcapsules showed signs of potential application in the textile field.

In this paper, a new approach has been developed to create virtual dress based on different body types. A 3D scan data of 232 Chinese females were analyzed. Firstly, samples were classified into four categories which were Torso Volume Index (TVI), slender, average, full and heavy. Secondly, 3D body frame, including 10 feature cross-sections extracted from the scan data, was defined and preprocessed. After that, the average data of 3D body frame in each body type group was calculated and a comparative analysis of the feature measurements among the four average body frames was performed. Finally, a shape deformation algorithm was presented to modify the template model according to four average body frames. And surface fitting is implemented by using NURBS technology. In conclusion, the research has created four mannequins representing the average body shape of each group subjects. The results can contribute to the future study on customizing digital mannequins for 3D virtual apparel design system, according to the body shape of target population.

In this paper, a new approach has been developed to create virtual dress based on different body types. A 3D scan data of 232 Chinese females were analyzed. Firstly, samples were classified into four categories which were Torso Volume Index (TVI), slender, average, full and heavy. Secondly, 3D body frame, including 10 feature cross-sections extracted from the scan data, was defined and preprocessed. After that, the average data of 3D body frame in each body type group was calculated and a comparative analysis of the feature measurements among the four average body frames was performed. Finally, a shape deformation algorithm was presented to modify the template model according to four average body frames. And surface fitting is implemented by using NURBS technology. In conclusion, the research has created four mannequins representing the average body shape of each group subjects. The results can contribute to the future study on customizing digital mannequins for 3D virtual apparel design system, according to the body shape of target population.

SnO_2 hydrosol made in the lab was deposited on HTPET fibers by dip-coating method. In order to improve the deposition of the coating layer and water adsorption properties of the fiber, atmospheric plasma treatment was used as pre-treatment to enhance the interaction at the interface. Photocatalytic properties of the samples coated with SnO_2 under different plasma treatments were analyzed through the degradation of methylene blue under UV-light. The morphologies and surface modulus of SnO_2 coated fibers were characterized by Scanning Electronic Microscope (SEM) and Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM), respectively. The effects of plasma treatment on water adsorption behavior of the fibers were examined by contact angle measurement instrument. Tensile tests were carried out to measure and assess the mechanical properties of HTPET fiber before and after plasma treatment and photocatalysis was done. The study revealed that the photocatalytic activity of SnO_2 coated HTPET fibers were enhanced due to the wettability of HTPET surfaces improved by plasma treatment and varying degrees of surface etching which benefited SnO_2 adhesion on HTPET fibers. Meanwhile, the modulus of monofilament surface increased under plasma treatment but decreased after phtotcatalysis. Mechanical properties of the fibers exhibited an opposite trend. It was found that the best photocatalytic activity of HTPET fibre was obtained under 100 w power plasma treatment.